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Channel: SOSfix Electronics

echo

blower

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grass

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shindaiwa

00:00:01

Fixing a leaf blower like this one can

00:00:03

be a long process. And that's because

00:00:05

there could be more than one problem

00:00:06

with it. But now that we've got one

00:00:08

problem fixed, we need to move on to the

00:00:09

next one, which is getting it running.

00:00:11

And hopefully this part will be as easy

00:00:13

as the last part, but I wouldn't

00:00:14

guarantee it. And that's because the

00:00:16

problem is a lot more complex than it

00:00:18

looks.

00:00:21

In today's video, we're going to be

00:00:23

looking at this weed heater brand leaf

00:00:24

blower. And the problem is that it won't

00:00:26

start because the fuel lines need

00:00:28

replacing. And more than likely the carb

00:00:30

will need some help, too. If you didn't

00:00:32

see the last video on this blower, we

00:00:34

had to fix the recoil, which was hanging

00:00:36

up a bit, and also replace the pull

00:00:37

rope. It still could have worked the way

00:00:39

it was, but on the chance we decide to

00:00:41

sell it, it'll be ready. There's a lot

00:00:43

we have to do, so we'll get right to it.

00:00:44

Starting with taking off the carb and

00:00:46

then taking it apart for an inspection.

00:00:48

The interesting part is that after

00:00:49

taking off the air filter base, come to

00:00:51

find out, the carb was stuck to the

00:00:53

engine. But with a bit of persuasion, it

00:00:55

came right off. Just watch out for the

00:00:56

gasket, which in this case was stuck to

00:00:58

the carb. However, it could have easily

00:01:00

been stuck to the engine side as well,

00:01:01

so keep an eye out for it. We'll then

00:01:03

take out the pumping section so we can

00:01:05

get a good look at the diaphragm and

00:01:06

also the inlet screen. The purge bulb is

00:01:09

also quite discolored, which is a good

00:01:11

sign that it could break at any time, so

00:01:12

replacing it would be a good idea. So,

00:01:14

here's the pumping diaphragm, and it's

00:01:16

in pretty good shape, which means we can

00:01:18

reuse it. The inlet screen is on the

00:01:20

body of the carb, and for the most part

00:01:21

looks to be fairly clean, which is good

00:01:23

news. It means the fuel filter is most

00:01:25

likely still connected to the fuel line

00:01:27

in the tank, doing the job it was

00:01:28

designed for. Next, we'll look at the

00:01:30

metering diaphragm, making sure it's

00:01:32

still flexible so it can work the rocker

00:01:34

arm that's underneath it. You can test

00:01:36

it while it's still in the carb, but you

00:01:37

can also choose to test it separated

00:01:39

from it, too.

00:01:45

And as you just heard, it's hardened up

00:01:47

quite a bit and it's lost most of its

00:01:49

flexibility, meaning we'll need to

00:01:50

replace it. You can choose to try and

00:01:52

save it by letting it soak in a

00:01:54

rejuvenation bath for a couple of days.

00:01:56

The longer it sits in the solution, the

00:01:58

better it is, but I recommend at least

00:01:59

48 hours. Next up, we're going to take

00:02:02

the carb apart the best we can. Then

00:02:03

give it a good cleaning using some carb

00:02:05

cleaner. Just be careful because these

00:02:08

tiny parts are very easy to lose and

00:02:10

getting replacements can be a real pain.

00:02:12

Clean the carb the best you can. Then I

00:02:14

recommend doing it one more time.

00:02:15

Honestly, I don't think you can clean

00:02:16

these too much. The more you clean it,

00:02:19

the better your chances are of getting

00:02:20

the carb working again and not having to

00:02:22

replace the carb with an aftermarket

00:02:24

one. Also, make sure that your cleaner

00:02:26

can pass through the screen. Otherwise,

00:02:28

keep cleaning it until it does.

00:02:32

Next, we're going to take out the fuel

00:02:33

adjustment screws so we can clean those

00:02:35

passages. But first, we need to find out

00:02:37

how many turns it takes for them to

00:02:38

bottom out. That way, we can put them

00:02:40

back in the way we found them. But not

00:02:42

only that, it'll help if we get lost

00:02:43

when tuning the carb. Just be careful

00:02:46

because these settings may or may not

00:02:47

work with your carb. They are not

00:02:49

universal between carbs. Just in case

00:02:51

there's a lot of debris in these

00:02:52

passages will clean them one at a time.

00:02:55

Of course, you can choose to clean them

00:02:56

both at the same time if you want to.

00:02:58

Once this passage is cleaned, we'll then

00:03:00

install the fuel adjustment screw all

00:03:02

the way in and then turn it out the

00:03:03

number of turns we counted earlier.

00:03:05

We'll then repeat the same process for

00:03:06

the other screw. This will also keep you

00:03:08

from getting them mixed up because they

00:03:10

may not be the same. Now, if you don't

00:03:11

have carb cleaner, then you can try

00:03:13

using whatever you have on hand, but I

00:03:14

can't guarantee that it'll work. Once we

00:03:17

spray the passages in the pumping

00:03:18

section, we'll start the tedious process

00:03:20

of putting the carb back together. Of

00:03:22

course, if you don't want to deal with

00:03:23

the hassle of putting the carb back

00:03:24

together, you can always choose to

00:03:26

replace the carb after inspecting it.

00:03:28

Now, on this carb, since the metering

00:03:29

diaphragm and the purge bulb needed to

00:03:31

be replaced, that would be enough for me

00:03:32

to replace the carb. This particular

00:03:35

carb kit, including extra parts, is only

00:03:37

16 bucks, which is a lot cheaper than

00:03:39

replacing this blower with another cheap

00:03:40

one. Once the rocker arm is back in

00:03:42

place, make sure it works like it should

00:03:44

be before moving on. Otherwise, you'll

00:03:46

have to reinstall it.

00:03:49

Just make sure the gasket goes on first

00:03:51

before installing new metering

00:03:53

diaphragm. You can buy these

00:03:54

individually for several bucks, but

00:03:56

buying in bulk is a much better idea.

00:03:58

These diaphragms are not universal, but

00:04:00

you just need to make sure the stem in

00:04:02

the middle is the same as the old one

00:04:03

you're replacing. This one will need a

00:04:05

new purge bulb as well, and even though

00:04:06

they aren't expensive, buying more than

00:04:08

one will make each one very cheap. Just

00:04:10

be careful because there are two

00:04:12

different sizes of bulbs, and this one

00:04:13

is the larger one. But if you don't know

00:04:15

which one you need, then I would buy a

00:04:17

variety pack, and you'll get one of

00:04:18

each.

00:04:21

Something I want to share with you is

00:04:23

that you can determine which one of the

00:04:24

ports is the fuel return by covering

00:04:26

each port while pressing on the bulb.

00:04:28

Just cover one port and press on the

00:04:30

bulb. And if the noise stops, it means

00:04:31

that port is for the return line. And as

00:04:34

you just heard, the port near the bulb

00:04:35

is for the return line back to the tank.

00:04:38

Of course, that means the bottom port is

00:04:39

for the fuel filter line. Next up, we'll

00:04:42

empty the fuel tank and get rid of the

00:04:43

last fuel line so we can get the fuel

00:04:45

filter out. The interesting part was

00:04:47

that the fuel filter was barely hanging

00:04:49

on as the fuel line was beginning to

00:04:50

come apart. So, be careful when working

00:04:52

on these. The fuel lines might look

00:04:54

okay, but in reality, they could be

00:04:55

hanging on by a thread. Now, before we

00:04:58

reuse this fuel filter, we want to make

00:05:00

sure it's clean. So, I'm going to push

00:05:01

carb cleaner back through it and also

00:05:03

spray down the outside of the filter.

00:05:05

You can do this as much as you feel

00:05:07

like, but sometimes it's just better to

00:05:08

replace them. After that, we'll begin to

00:05:10

install the new fuel lines, starting

00:05:12

with the fuel filter line. I've never

00:05:14

seen this type of fuel tank grommet

00:05:15

before. And unfortunately, I wasn't able

00:05:17

to find the part number for it, only the

00:05:19

one for the fuel tank. That means you'll

00:05:21

have to take measurements of the opening

00:05:22

and source a new one if yours is broken

00:05:24

or leaking.

00:05:28

Once the filter's been installed on the

00:05:30

fuel line, push it back into the tank,

00:05:32

but make sure it gets located at the

00:05:33

bottom of the fuel tank. This will make

00:05:35

sure it'll be able to pick up as much

00:05:36

fuel as possible. And if there's too

00:05:38

much extra fuel line in the tank, just

00:05:40

pull it out from the top. After that,

00:05:42

we'll then run the fuel return line, but

00:05:44

this one will be a whole lot easier to

00:05:45

do. We won't be installing that plastic

00:05:48

splice on the line, and instead, we'll

00:05:49

leave about an inch of fuel line in the

00:05:51

tank to keep it from backing out. That's

00:05:53

the reason why installing the return

00:05:54

line is going to be so much easier. I'm

00:05:56

not going to do it the way it came from

00:05:57

the factory. We're also going to be

00:05:59

doing a flow test to make sure the fuel

00:06:00

is flowing through the system like it's

00:06:02

supposed to. When connecting the fuel

00:06:04

lines, the filter line will connect to

00:06:06

the brass port further away from the

00:06:07

bulb, while the return line will connect

00:06:09

to the one closer to it. Once the fuel

00:06:11

lines are connected to the carb, we'll

00:06:13

put some fuel into the tank and then

00:06:14

test the system.

00:06:17

So, when pressing on the bulb, fuel will

00:06:19

come up the filter line, enter the carb,

00:06:21

fill the bulb, and then leave through

00:06:22

the return line and go back to the fuel

00:06:24

tank.

00:06:30

And as you can see, fuel is flowing the

00:06:32

way it's supposed to, meaning the fuel

00:06:33

lines are correctly connected and the

00:06:35

carb seems to be working, too. Now that

00:06:37

we know that everything seems to be

00:06:38

right, we'll install the carb the way

00:06:40

it's supposed to and then try starting

00:06:41

it. Now, the gasket that sits between

00:06:43

the carb and the engine was still stuck

00:06:44

to the backside of this carb, but make

00:06:46

sure not to forget to install yours. If

00:06:48

you do forget it, then the carb isn't

00:06:50

going to work as well as it should be,

00:06:51

and the engine will not work well

00:06:53

either. Speaking of not working well, if

00:06:55

the engine has starting problems or is

00:06:57

running poorly, then we might need a

00:06:58

special tool to make our adjustments.

00:07:00

And on this carb, the one we need is the

00:07:02

splined version, but yours might be

00:07:04

different.

00:07:16

>> [snorts]

00:07:22

>> Well, it didn't even try and start, so

00:07:24

I'm guessing it might be flooded. So,

00:07:25

we'll try it again, but this time

00:07:26

without the choke.

00:07:29

[snorts]

00:07:33

Well, this isn't very promising, but

00:07:35

we're not going to give up just yet. So,

00:07:37

if it's not flooded, then maybe we need

00:07:38

to give it a bit of help with a splash

00:07:40

of fuel from our bottle.

00:07:43

[snorts]

00:08:03

Now, that is a whole lot better.

00:08:04

However, it eventually stopped. So,

00:08:06

maybe it needs a bit more fuel. And

00:08:08

since it won't stay running, how about

00:08:09

we try adding more fuel at idle speed by

00:08:11

turning the L screw out a quarter turn

00:08:13

and see what happens. We'll do more

00:08:15

tuning if we need to once we get it

00:08:16

started and running.

00:08:22

Oh,

00:09:06

And luckily with a bit of tuning and

00:09:07

mainly adding more fuel with the L

00:09:09

screw, it now starts and runs. But it is

00:09:11

going to take several more cold starts

00:09:13

to make sure it'll start reliably and

00:09:14

also run well, too. But if we make any

00:09:16

more adjustments to the carb, we'll have

00:09:18

to restart the cold start cycle all over

00:09:20

again. So, be ready for a long road

00:09:21

ahead. Hopefully, this will go well

00:09:23

because I really don't want to spend

00:09:25

more time on it than I have to.

00:09:28

So, my question is, how much do you

00:09:30

think this blower could sell for? Or do

00:09:32

you think I'm better off just keeping it

00:09:34

for personal use instead?

00:09:38

Thank you for watching. I really do

00:09:40

appreciate your time here. Please feel

00:09:42

free to ask me any questions about this

00:09:44

project or about your own projects. And

00:09:46

I hope to see you in the next video.

Description:

Links to products I have in my tool bag. Carb. https://www.amazon.com/Anxingo-Carburetor-Replacement-Husqvarna-Weedeater/dp/B0BZ4LP2TR?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.6FBM3BEUn19fbtBWspQ2iTzxsqT0uCS6px_h5eNkBq5u03csFIKC1f3ScJy2cURkNa55z19BaMyiNinaRzEbiDpEcOr8Idf5vSr9LS2fbSO3NhHokPTVnIr8IW0vaQsbU12OOqZph-S61Xk1yF6t2eRCN47Jq9CBvalAh8DeXR2mNSqKI3U03heo96tVTvjbQV5lLPhAp9jGnbSDSgRUY6_mByOICDGPKRAoJS1DNtk.JyWHxXEvWlq2hvw9FtZ2UU3XFRHpxpZ3sJfCMsvSU0o&dib_tag=se&language=en_US Air Filter. https://www.amazon.com/Stens-PLT2145-PP25CFA-PP25SFA-530036575/dp/B071LHKCNP?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.C3qhCbint1xoC5r4RRmoPlamErODEY57C_A67xRI_L3Ut-8LZ45tSRHtJaOKoytawtUx6w4FxfvE12e9qN85vqdNUqxSr9MeGTNQMPPAbXaGyXPUKfFm3piNa1l1gYxMJeBPzqZo1Rb3QcCDlRz2Z5tgVVZgCQkD9FxnoIN-LOTQYITSAWsRUlzHPPbKA6XWhgRA1Y1wqep0CvhfHyuGH0iAURVbkmU3ZF-i-wfP2L4.Upj_oycvRPFsx5fMwjfEULgEpa7ugO3KI6N6UDt1VGA&dib_tag=se&language=en_US Compression tester. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FOQJL0E?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B01FOQJL0E Spark Checker. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002STS4O?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B0002STS4O Tygon Fuel Line. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0119NJSN6?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B0119NJSN6 Carb Adjustment tools. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GKXXRLC?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B07GKXXRLC Fuel Filter. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KP75V88?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B01KP75V88 Chemical bottle. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B085LT9TQP?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B085LT9TQP Above are affiliate links which means we receive a percentage of the revenue made from purchasing products via those links. Thanks for watching. This blower needed new fuel lines to start but that's just the start.

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